Shoe-sewing machine.



No. 634,850. Patented Oct. l0, I899. A. B. FOWLER &. a. E. WARREN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Nov. 8, 1894..)

7 Shams-Sheet l.

(No Model.)

m: NOWRIS PETERS co'. PMDTO-LITHOU WASHINGTON. u, c.

No. 634,850. Patented Oct. l0, I899. A. B. FOWLER &. G. E. WARREN.

SHOE'SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Nov. 8, 1894.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet ;2,

No. 634.850. Pate nted Oct. l0, I899.

A. b. ruwuzn a; a. E. WARREN. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application flled Nov. s, 1894.) (N o M o d e l 7 sham-sheet 3 rm: yomus PETERS co. PnoTo-u'mm WASHINGTON. u. c.

. Patented bet. I0, I899. A. a. FOWLER & a. E. WARREN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Nov. 8, 1894.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 4.

z z z WTEB sees Likeitum m a; m I

No. 634,850. Patented Oct. l0, I899.

A. B. 'FuwLEn & a. E. WARREN. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Nov. 8, 1894.) (No Model.)

7 Sheets-Sheet 5.

I \ze T02 5 .2%...

Patented Hot; In, I899. A. B. FOWLER & G. E. WARREN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applicaticn filed Nov. 8, 1894.)

7 Sheets-Sheet 6,

(No Model.)

Qi fiqesses v No. 634,850. Patented Oct. m, l8 99: A. B. rowuzn & a. E. WARREN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Nov. 8, 1894.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 7.

WEaesses I12eifufs "(92W E (FE/1,56%, I Zm? ilwrrnn Sterne PATENT (Enrica.

ALFRED B. FOlVLER-AND GEORGE E. WARREN, OF PAWTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND.

SHOE-SEWING NIACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 634,850, dated October 10, 1899.

Application filed November 8, 1894. Serial No. 528,260. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we,ALFRED B. FOWLER and GEORGE E. WARREN, citizens of the United States, residing at Pawtucket, in the county of Providence and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-llfachines; and we do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates in general to improvements in sewing-machines, and more especially in wax-thread sewingmachines, but particularlyin that class of wax-thread sewing machines in which a hook-needle is used to form a chain-stitch and the stock is fed by the lateral movement of the needle, it being adapted to sew the uppers and soles of boots and shoes together in making what is known in the trade as turned work or to sew the uppers, insoles, and welts together in making what is known in the trade as welt-shoes.

The object of the invention is to improve different parts of the machine by the employment of various combinations of elements and devices, as will be clearly set forth hereinafter and more particularly enumerated in the claims; and it consists in the employment of various elements, combination of elements, and minor details of construction, as will be fully set forth and described hereinafter, they being illustrated in their preferred forms and relations one to the other on the accompanying drawings, on which is shown a sewingmachine embodying our invention, and said drawings form an essential part of this specification.

On the drawings, Figure 1 represents a side elevation of the head of the machine and a portion of the standard for the same, as seen from the right. Fig. 2 represents the opposite side elevation of the head of the machine to that shown in Fig. 1, showing the shaft and the hub of the driving-pulley in section. Fig. 3 represents a rear view of the head of the machine. Fig. 4 represents a detail view of the needle, its operating mechanism, the looper, and its operating mechanism. Fig. 5 represents the needle and looper in different positions from those shown in Fig. 4. Fig. 6

represents a detail plan view of the bevel sector-gear and the bevel-pinion which are used in the mechanism to operate the looper. Fig. 7 represents a section on the line 00 :10, shown in Fig. 4, the arrow-heads on the line indicating the direction in which it is viewed. Fig. 8 represents a section on the line y y, also shown in Fig. 4, the arrow-heads on the line indicating the direction in which it is viewed. Fig. 9 represents a substantially horizontal longitudinal section over the weltguide. The back-gage and the lock to interinittingly hold the back-gage against and in a longitudinal movement in its bearing in the frame when pressed against by the boot or.

shoe while being sewed. Fig. 10 represents a detail view of the earn, the lever, and con necting-rod which operate the back-gage. Fig. 11 represents a horizontal section through the base of the head of the machine, showing the auxiliary back-gage and the lock to intermittibgly hold said gage from moving longitudinally in its hearings in the frame when pressed against by the boot or shoe While being sewed. Fig. 12 represents a substantially horizontal section of the tensionwheel, the means used to release the tension on the thread, and showing a part of the takeupin plan view. Fig. 13 represents a section through the joint between the two levers included in the mechanism employed to automatically pull the lasting-tacks from the boot or shoe while it is being sewed. Fig. 14 represents a detail front elevation of the mechanisms employed to cause the feeding of the 1 boot or shoe while being sewed and to allow the adjustment of length of stitch to be made, also the tension-wheel and the take-up. Fig. 15 represents the cam and lever which operate the automatic tension-release. Fig. 16 represents a rear view of the base of the standard of themachine, showing the counter-shaft from which the machine receives its motion, also the connection with the treadle of the back-gage, welt-guide, and tension-release. Fig. 17 represents a detail plan view of another form of the means which may be employed to automatically and intermittingly release the tension from the thread. Fig. 18

represents a longitudinal section of a tension device on the line a .2, shown in Flg. 17, the

arrow-heads on the line indicating the direction in which itis viewed. Fig. 19 represents a detail plan View of still another means which may be employed to produce the automatic releasing and renewing of the tension on the thread. Fig. 20 represents a detail View of another arrangement of the back-gage and a mechanism to automatically withdraw the same from contact with the boot or shoe when the machine is stopped. Fig. 21 represents the front elevation of the lower part of the standard of the machine, showing another form of the mechanism which is operated by the treadle to automatically cause the withdrawal of the back-gage and welt-guide, either or both, from contact with the boot or shoe by the stopping of the machine.

The same letters and figures on the drawings refer to the same parts wherever they occur.

On the drawings, B represents a boot or shoe to be sewed, showing it in cross-section, and L represents the last, upon which the boot or shoe is preferably lasted previous to the time it is being sewed.

The machine is provided with a suitable standard 1, upon which the head of the ma-,

chine is mounted. The head has a suitable frame 2 for the support of the several parts connected thereto, which frame may be made in one piece or in several pieces, but preferably in more than one, as shown on the drawing, and in bearings in the frame is mounted the driving-shaft 3. Upon the driving-shaft is rigidly mounted the driving-pulley 4, its balance-wheel 5, and the cams 6 and 7. A rotary motion in the direction of the arrows shown is imparted to the driving-shaft from the groove-pulley 8 011 the counter-shaft 9 by means of the belt or cord 10, as shown in Fig. 16. The pulley 8 is movable longitudinally and loosely mounted upon the countershaft 9. Afriction-disk 11 is firmly attached to and rotates with the counter-shaft, being provided on its face with a disk 12, of leather or other suitable friction-producing material. The counter-shaft is mounted in suitable bearings 13 13 on the standard 1 and is kept in a rotary motion by means of a belt on the pulley 14 or by other well-known means, as maybe desired. A shaft 15, arranged at right angles to the counter-shaft, is mounted in bearings in the standard and is provided at its forward end with the treadle-lever 16, having attached treadle 17, as shown in Fig. 2

and in dottedlinesin Fig. 1G. Atitsrearend said shaft is provided with the fork-lever 18, the forked end of which embraces the counter-shaft and is moved lengthwise of the shaft by the operation of the treadle. A sleeve 19 is mounted and movable longitudinally upon the counter-shaft, being located between the forked end of the lever 18 and the hub of the pulley 8. The sleeve 19 is limited in its longitudinal movement on the shaft by means of a pin 20, screwed into the counter-shaft through a slot or perforation 21 in the sleeve.

A lever 22 is firmly mounted on the shaft 15, being connected at its outer end to the verti cal rod 23, as shown in Fig. 16, for a purpose to be described hereinafter. A spring 24 is attached to the rod 23 and to the standard, the tendency of said spring being to cause the rod to be held downward, and consequently the treadle in its upper position.

It Will be seen that when the treadle is depressed,as shown on the d rawings,it will cause the forked lever 18 to exert a pressure on the pulley 8,movingitlongitudinallyon the shaft, creating sufficient friction between the friction-disks and said pulley to cause said pulley to rotate with the shaft, and consequently to convey a rotary motion to the driving-shaft 3 in the head of the machine by means of the belt 10.

The machine is provided with a needle and operating mechanism, a looper and operating mechanism, a feeding mechanism, a tension device, a tension-release, a take-up, means to guide and support thework while being sewed, and a tack-pulling attachment to remove the lasting-tacks ahead of the needle, so as to prevent the breaking of the needle. These several parts and mechanisms will be described separately.

In this machine the needle and its operating mechanism is constructed as follows: In one side of the cam 6 is cut a cam-groove 25, (shown in dotted lines in Figs. 3 and 4,) which cam operates upon the roll 26 on the needlelever 27, causing said lever to oscillate intermittingly on its fulcrum 28. To the lower end of the needle-lever is pivotally attached the connecting rod or bar 29. The opposite end of the connecting-rod to that attached to the needle-lever is pivotally attached to the needle-block 30, which block is pivotally attached and capable of oscillation on the pin or bolt 31 on the bracket 32, projecting forward from the slide 33, said slide being capable of reciprocation in the guide-grooves 34 34 on the frame 2 to produce the feeding of the stock, as will be more fully described hereinafter in relation to the feeding mechanism.

Within the connecting mechanism between the earn 6 and the pivoted needle-block 30 is placed means whereby theneedle-block may be moved laterally to produce the feeding of the stock. This mechanism is preferably constructed and operated as follows: The pivotal connection between the needle-lever and the connecting-rod 29 is so arranged that the connecting-rod is free to slide toward or from the needle-lever on said pivot, substantially as shown on Fig. 8. The needle-block 30 is guided in its movements on its fulcrum in a circular guide-groove 35 (shown in Fig. 7 and in dotted lines in Figs. 4 and 5) in the forward end of the bracket 32. To the needleblock is firmly attached a hooked curved needle 36. The operation of the cam 25 upon the roll 26 on the needle-lever and the connection of the needle-lever with the needle-' block causes the block and its attached nocdle to oscillate on the pin or bolt 31 and the needle to alternately pierce and withdraw from the materialbeing sewed. Abell-crank lever 37, forming a needle-guide, is mounted and free to turn upon the pin or bolt 31. The lower end of this guide is perforated and receives the needle, guiding, supporting, andproperly directing it when perforating the leather or other material being sewed. The upper end of the needle-guide moves against the surface of the bracket 32. A spring 38 acts upon the needle-guide to cause the upper end of the same to rest against the pin or stop 39, which projects from the bracket 32; but as the needle-block is turned upon its fulcrum a projection 40 on the needle-block engages the upper end of the needle-guide, forcing it forward and prevents the needle from being withdrawn far enough to remove it from the guide when the needle is in its extreme backward position.

The looper and its operating mechanism are constructed as follows: The cam 6 is provided with a cam-groove 41 on the opposite side of said cam to where the cam-groove for the needle-guide is cut. The cam-groove 41 operates on the roll 42 on the looper-lever43, causing said lever to intermittingly oscillate on its fulcrum 44 on the frame of the head of the machine. To this lever is connected the connecting-rod 45 by means of a ball-andsocket joint or by any other suitable joint, the opposite end of the connecting-rod being pivotally connected to the stud or bolt 46,

which stud or bolt is pivoted to one arm of a bell-crank lever 47, pivotally attached by means of. the bolt 48 to the forward part of the frame 2. The opposite arm of the bellcrank lever 47 to where the connecting-rod 45 is connected is provided with gear-teeth and forms the bevel sector-gear 49. The sector-gear 49 meshes into the bevel-pinion 50, mounted on the hollow shaft 51, which shaft is free to rotate in its hearings in the front of the frame 2. The shaft 51 is prevented from moving longitudinally in its bearings by means of the pinion and the collar 52 on the lower end of the shaft, in which collar is seen rely held the looper proper, 53, having a perforation, as shown in dotted lines in Figs. 1, 2, 4, and 5, through which the thread or cord used in sewing passes.

The operation of the cam 41 upon the roll 42 on the looper-lever and the connection between the looper-lever and the looper causes the hollow shaft and its connected looper to be intermittingly rotated in opposite directions around the end of the needle as it projects through the material being sewed. This intermittiugly-rotating movement of the looper causes the formation of the loop upon the needle and, in connection with the intermittingly-oscillating movement of the needle, forms the stitches through the material be ing sewed.

The feeding of the workis accomplished by the following mechanism The cam 6 is provided on its face with the canrgroove 54, which acts upon the roll 55 on the feed-lever 56, causing said lever to intermittingly oscillate on its fulcrum 57 in the frame 2. This lever 56 is provided with the longitudinal groove 58, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, and 14. The slide 33, which is movable crosswise of the frame 2 in the guide-grooves 34, is provided with the vertical slot 59, within which the pin or stud 60 is adjustable up or down and held in its adjusted position by'means of the nut 61. The block 62 is mounted on the stud (30 and moves in the groove 58 on the lever 56 when the stud is adjusted or the lever is turned on its fulcrum. This connection of the lever 56 to the slide causes the slide to be intermittingly reciprocated within its guide-grooves, and as the needle-block, with its attached needle, is mounted upon the bracket 32, extending from the slide, the needle will receive the same reciprocating movement. It will be understood that the amount of reciprocations of the slide 33, and consequently the amount of the feeding of the stock, may be varied by the adjustment ,of the stud in the slotthat is to say, the

feeding of thestock is increased by the adjustment of the stud downward in the slot and decreased when the stud is adjusted in the opposite direction. During the reciproeating movements of the needle and the slide 33 the connecting-rod, which is guided in its longitudinal movements when operating the needle within a slot in the slide 33, as shown in Fig. 14, is caused to slide toward and from the needle-lever on the pivotaland sliding connection between said parts above mentioned in relation to the needle-operating mechanism.

The operation of the feeding mechanism is as follows: With the slide 33 and feeol-lever in the position shown in Fig. 14 the camgroove 54 causes the slide and its attached needle to move toward. the right of the ma chine, while the needle still remains withdrawn from the stock and in apositionshown in Fig. 4. After the slide reaches the end of its movement toward the right it remains stationary for a certain time, and the needle is moved forward and pierces the work or stock being sewed. The needle while still in the work is caused to be moved, with the slide 33, toward the left of the machine by the feedcam, carrying with it the stock. This movement constitutes the feed between the formation of each stitch and therefore determines the length of the stitch. The amount of the feeding of the stock may be varied by the adjustment of the stud 60 in the slot, as above described.

The tension on the thread or cord used in sewing the boots or shoes or other stock to be sewed is caused by the following mechanism: The stud or pin 63, screwed into or otherwise firmly attached to the frame of the head of the machine, is screw-threaded on its outward end, substantially as shown. Upon the stud next to the frame is placed the felt or other friction-producing washer 6 1-, and next to said washer is placed the tension-wheel 65, which is provided with a V-shaped annular groove to receive the thread or cord used in sewing. The tension-wheel is preferably provided with a series of perforations 6b 66,which extend at right angles to the V-shaped groove in said wheel, having the inner surfaces of the perforations substantially coinciding with the inner part of the t -shaped groove, substantially as shown in Fig. 12. The second felt or friction-producing washer 67 is then placed upon the stud 63, the washers 64 and (57 coming in contact with the opposite sides of the tension-wheel. The metal collar 68 is then placed upon the stud, so as to rest against the outer friction-washer. The spiral spring 69 is then placed upon the stud and finally the nut 70, substantially as shown in Fig. 12. The thread or cord T used in sewing surrounds the tension-wheel on its course from a suitable wax-pot (not shown on the drawings) to the looper.

The operation of the tension device is as follows: The nutis screwed upon the stud 63 far enough to cause the spring 69 to press the collar 68 against the washer 67 with sufficient pressure to produce the desired amount of friction between the washers 64 and 67 and the tension-wheel 65 to prevent said wheel from turning on the stud before the desired tension is applied to the thread, and said p ressure, and consequently the required tension, may be increased or decreased by the adjustment of the nut on the stud, as will be readily understood.

The automatic intermittingly operating tension-releasing mechanism in its preferred form is carried out as follows: Attached to or made in one piece with the driving-shaft 3 is a cam, (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3 and in full lines in Fig. 15,) which cam is provided with the cam-groove 71, and said groove engages the roll 72 on the tension-release lever 73, causing said lever to intermittingly oscillate on its fulcrum 74. The rod passes loosely through a perforation in an ear on the tension-release lever, said rod being screwthreaded at this place and provided with the nut and check-nut 76, adjustable upon said screw-thread to vary the time of the operation of the tension releasing and renewing device. The bell-crank lever 77 is pivoted at 78 to the frame 2 and has one arm pivotally attached to the end of the rod 75, the other arm of the bell-crank lever being forked and extending on either side of the collar 68. The ends of the fork portion of the lever 77 are provided with inwardly-extending projections 79 79, which enter recesses on the opposite sides of the collar 68.

The automatic releasing of the tension on the thread or cord is accomplished as follows: When the action of the cam-groove 71 causes the lever 73 to turn on its fulcrum and the car on said lever to engage the nut and check nut 7 0 on the rod 75, it will force the rod forward and by so doing will cause the bell-crank lever to turn up on its fulcrum and move the collar 68 longitudinally on the stud 63 against the influence of the spring 69, thereby removing the pressure exerted by said spring from the washer G7 and releasing the friction between the tension-wheel and the washers 64 and 67,and consequently releasing the tension on the thread or cord T, as it allows the wheel to turn easily on the stud when the thread or cord is pulled forward. The tension is automatically renewed by the action of the spring 69 as soon as the cam-groove 71 causes the lever73 to move in the opposite direction and removes the car on said lever from contact with the nut and check-nut 76. It will be understood that the time of operating the tension releasing and renewing mechanism may be varied by the adjustment of the nut and check-nut on the rod 75.

In the form of the mechanism to automatically and intermittingly operate the tension releasing and renewing device shown in Figs. 17 and 18 the bell-crank lever 77 has its fulcrum 78 in the form of two studs secured to the stud 63 on opposite sides of the same, said studs projecting through slotted perforations in the collar 68, allowing said collar to be moved on the stud 63 by the influence of the spring 69. The collar 68 is provided with an annular groove, and the lever 77 is provided with a cam-shaped portion restingin said groove in such a manner that when the lever is turned on its fulcrum by the forward movement of the rod 75 its cam-shaped portions will engage the side of the groove in the collar and, forcing the collar outward, will release the tension on the thread in a manner similar to that of the mechanism hereinbefo re described.

In Fig. 10 the lever 77 is shown as a substantially straight lever having its fulcrum 78 on an ear on the frame 2, one end of said lever being acted upon directly by the cam 71, which in this case is shown as aside cam. The opposite end of the lever from that acted upon by the cam is preferably forked and embraces the groove-collar 68 in such a manner that when the cam causes the forked end of the lever to move in one direction it will press against the side of the groove in the collar and force the collar outward on the stud 63, releasing the tension on the thread; but when moved in the opposite direction it will allow the springs 69 to renew the tension.

It will be seen that various forms of mechanisms might be used to produce the automatic operation of the tension releasing and renewing device from that shown on the drawings, and we do not wish to confine ourselves to any particular form, but desire to vary it within the scope of mechanical skill without departing from the spirit of our invention.

The take-up on the machine, the object of which is to remove the superfluous thread IIO from the loop last drawn in order to red use the rendering of the thread through the hook or eye of the needle to a minimum, is con structed as follows: At one end of the needlelever 27 is firmly but adj ustably attached the take-up 80, which is preferably made yielding and in the form of a spring wire or rod provided in its free end with the elongated hook or loop 81, as shown in Figs. 2, 12, and 14. The thread or cord T passes from the tension-wheel through the hook or loop 81 and over the sheave 82 in its course from the wax pot to the looper, as shown in Figs. 2 and 12. This sheave is shown in dotted lines in Fig. 12, it being placed within a suit-able shield and pivotally attached to the bracket 83 on the frame2 or to some other stationary part of the machine.

It will be understood that the take-up might be made in the form of a lever and be held in its' normal position by the yielding pressure of a spring instead of being made yielding initself; also, that the take-up might be attached to or form a part of a leverindependent of the needle-lever and lie-operated by a separate cam from that which operates the needle-lever, said cam being so timed in its action on said lever as to produce the de sired result. Such devices are well-known mechanical equivalents to the construction shown on the-drawings, and we do not wish to confine ourselves to the use of any particular and well-known equivalent device in our invention.

.The operation of the take-up is as follows: When the needle, with the loop previously formed resting in its hook or throat, begins to be moved forward by the action of the needlelever, the loop end of the take-up begins to be moved downward, exerting a pulling strain on the thread or cord. This strain on the thread takes up a certain quantity of the slack in the loop previously made and resting on the needle, which slackness is caused by the forward movement of the needle. The amount of the thread taken up by the take-up is adjustable by simply moving the take-up in relation to the needle-lever. The take-up may be so adjusted that a part of its movement will be lost motion, and its loop or eye 81 will act on the thread or cord during the last part of its movement, if so desired. As the needle draws backward and out of the stock, carrying with it the loop just placed in the hook or throat, the take-up rises and gives up the thread it has previously taken up withoutexerting a tension on such thread and causes it to render through the hook or throat of the needle as little as is possible.

The mechanism to properly guide the boot or shoe while being sewed on the machine consists of a stationary channel-guide, which rests in the channel of the sole as the work is fed; also, a back-gage to press against the side of the upper of the boot or shoe, and, if so desired, an auxiliary back-gage to assist the back-gage and hold the stock more stead ily. When a welt is being sewed upon the boot or shoe, a suitable weltrguide is used either in combination with the back-gage and auxiliary back-gage, either or both or independentof both, the welt-guide in the latter case performing the functions of the backgage. In the machine these devices are carried out as follows: The channel-guide 84 is rigidly but adjustably attached to the frame 2 or to-some other stationary part of the machine, substantially as shown in Fig. 1, so that its lower end will enter the channel in the sole of the boot or shoe B, (shown on the draw ingin cross-section as lasted upon the last L,) and by resting in said channel will tend to guide and hold the boot or shoe in proper position. This channel-guide is arranged on the machine in such a position that its forward end will enter the channel just to the right of and to clear the needle as it is forced through the sole of the boot or shoe, so as to hold the boot or shoe against the pressure of the needle. On the drawings have been shown a back gage,an auxiliary back-gage,and a welt-guide; but it is not necessary that all of such devices must be used, as any one, with the exception of the auxiliary back-gage, maybe used without the others with good results, as above set forth.

The back-gage 85 projects forward from the front of the frame 2 and far enough to the left of the position occupied by the channel-guide to allow of the feeding of the boot or shoe by the needle, as shown in Fig. 2, and more especially in Fig. 9. Said gage is secured upon the forward end of the shaft or slide 86 in such a manner as to form a collar between which and theframe 2 is placed a spiral spring 87, the tendency of said spring being to force the back-gage forward against the boot or shoe.

Heretofore in most, if not all, of the sewingmachines in which the stock is fed by the lateral movement of the needle the back-gage remains stationary and the needle withdrawn from the stock while at one side of said gage, which action causes a continual jerking motion to the stock, making it hard for the operator to guide or hold his work; but in some cases the back-gage is caused to move laterally with the needle, which movement necessitates considerable mechanism and in most cases is not satisfactory in its action. vBy arranging the back-gage at or near the extreme end of the greatest feed of the needle and using in connection with said gage an auxiliary back-gage or a welt-guide, either or both, or by using saidback-gage alone, and having a locking device for said gages, as will be described hereinafter, the

boot is firmly supported and steadily held .while the needle is withdrawing from the same, all necessary mechanism for the lateral movement of the back-gage being dispensed with and making it a very simple and effective device. 7

The cam 7 on the driving'shaft is provided with the cam-groove 88, which acts upon the roll 89 upon the back-gage lever 90, causing said lever to oscillate on its fulcrum 91 on the frame 2. To this back-gage lever is pivotally attached the perforated block 92,within the perforationin which is loosely guided the rod The spring 94 surrounds the rod 93 between the block 92 and a collar 95, adjust-ably mounted on the rod, the tendency of said spring being to move the rod longitudinally in the block toward the front of the machine, thus exertingan additional springpressure on the back-gage to that exerted by the spring 87. The nut, check-nut, and washer 96, adjustable upon the rod 93, limit the above-mentioned movement of the same in the block. Consequently the rod can be moved backward in the block from its normal position, as shown in Fig. 10, but is limited in its forward movement by means of the nut, check-nut, and washer 96. The forward end of the rod 93 is pivotally attached to a stud or projection on the slide 97 which slide is movable and moved forward and backward in guides in the front of the machine by the action of the cam 88 on the back-gage lever 89, substantially as shown in Figs. 1 and 10. It will be seen by having the rod 93 move loosely in its block 92 and placing the spring 94 upon said rod between said block and the collar 95 on the rod that the cam 88.

in withdrawing the back-gage simply compresses the spring 87 and does not have to overcome the influence of the more powerful spring 94, thus lessening the strain on the cam by this construction.

Within a guide in the slide 97 is adjustably secured the slide 98, which is provided with the teeth or serrations 99 and also with the forked projection 100, which projection embraces the shaft 86 and rests within crossgrooves 101 within the shaft in such a manner that when the back-gage is moved backward or forward by the boot or shoe it will also move the slide 97in a corresponding direction in its guides in the frame 2 against the influence of the spring 9-t'on the rod 93, said rod moving forward and backward in the block 92. It will be seen that the pressure of the back-gage against the boot or shoe is the combined yielding pressure exerted by the springs 87 and 94. The construction of the connection between the shaft 86 and the projection 100 allows such parts to be applied to the frame 2 and also allows the movement of said projection in the crossgrooves in the shaft.

A locking mechanism is employed to lock and hold the back-gage against being moved forward by the influence of the spring 87 or backward by the pressure of the boot or shoe against said back-gage, which pressure is.

caused by the withdrawal of the needle from the stock, said mechanism being constructed substantially as follows: Upon the hub of the driving-pulley 1 is formed the cam-surface 102, which acts upon the roll 103 on the locking-lever 101. This lever is fulcrumed to the frame 2 at 105. The belt 106 is mounted and longitudinally movable in' a bearing in the frame 2, being kept from rotation in its hearing by means of the screw 107, which is screwed through the'frame and enters a 1011- gitudinal groove on the bolt 106, as shown in Fig. 9. The spring 108 surrounds the bolt 106, between the head on the boltand ashoulder made in the frame by a chambered recess therein in which the spring 108 rests, said spring being to force the bolt longitudinally in its hearings in the frame toward the slide 98, as shown in Fig. 9. Theinner end of the bolt 106 is provided with the teeth or serra tions 109, which engage the teeth or serrations 99 on the slide 98 when the bolt is moved sufficiently longitudinallyin its bearing by the spring 108, thereby locking said slide against a longitudinal movement in its bearing, so as to hold the back-gage against the boot or shoe to support the same while the needle is withdrawing from the perforation which it has previously made, said needle carrying within the hook or throat near the pointof the needle the loop in the thread or cord placed there by the looper, as will be fully described hereinafter. The outer end of the bolt 106 is screw-threaded and projects through a perforation in the locking-lever 104:, being provided on its extreme end, outside of said lever, with the nut and check-nut 110, which rests against the outer surface of the locking-lever holding said bolt against the influence of the spring 108, the lever being prevented from turning on its fulcrum by the cam 102 on the driving-pulley. When the roll on the lever 104 reaches the low part of the cam 102, the spring 108 will cause the locking-lever to turn on its fulcrum and the bolt 106 to lock the back-gage. It will be seen that the spring 108 acts to hold the roll 103 against the cam 102.

The machine is preferably provided with an auxiliary back-gage to assist the backgage in supporting the boot or shoe and holding it more steadily, which auxiliary gage is constructed and operated substantially as follows: Within bearings in the base of the frame 2 and in a bracket 111, attached to or made in one piece with said frame, is longitudinally movable the rod or bar 112. The spring 113 surrounds this rod or bar, between the frame and the shoulder 114: on the bar, the tendency of which is to force the bar forward. The stop 115 limits the forward movement of the bar, as shown on Fig. 110. Upon the forward end of the bar 112 is firmly attached the auxiliary back-gage 116, which is preferably made broad, so as to present a sufficiently large surface to the boot or shoe to hold and guide it properly while being sewed. The bar 112 is provided on its side with the teeth or serrations 117, and in a bearing in the bracket 118, made in one piece with or attached to the frame 2, is mounted the bolt 119, which is adapted to slide longitudinallyin its bearing, being prevented from IIO turning therein by means of the screw 120, which is screwed through the bracket and enters a longitudinal groove on the bolt, as shown in Fig. 11. The spring 121 surrounds the bolt, between the head on the bolt and the bracket 118, the tendency of said spring being to force the bolt longitudinally toward the right of the machine. The forward end of the bolt is provided with the teeth or serrations 122, which engage the teeth or serrations on the bar 112 when the bolt is moved sufficiently longitudinally in its hearing by the spring 121, locking said bar against a longitudinal movement in its bearings, so as to firmly and rigidly hold the auxiliary back gage and support the boot or shoe while the needle is withdrawing and carrying the loop in the thread or cord resting in the hook on the end of the needle through the perforation made in the boot or shoe by the needle to form the stitches. The outer end of the bolt 119 is screw-threaded and projects through a perforation in the lower end of the lever 104 and is there provided with the nut and checknut 123, which rests against the outersurface of the lower end of the lever and holds said bolt against the influence of the spring 121 until the roll 103 on the lever 104 reaches the low part of the cam and allows the spring 121 to act upon the bolt and to lock the auX- iliary baclegage in a manner and for a similar purpose as above described in relation to the locking of the back-gage.

When the machine is to be used in sewing what are known in the trade as welt shoes, a guide is employed to guide the welt to itsproper place on the shoe, and such a welt-guide and its operating mechanism are constructed and operated as follows: \Vithin the same guide-groove which contains the slide 97, but in front of said slide, is placed another slide 124, which is free to be moved forward and backward in said guide-groove, and to this slide is secured the welt-guide 125 by means of the screw-bolt 126 (shown in Fig. 9) or by other equivalent means in such a manner that it maybe adjusted in relation to the slide. The welt-guide is provided in its forward end with the slot or perforation 127, through which the welt passes when. being fed and attached to the boot or shoe. The length of this perforation is adjustable to suit the different widths of welts .used by means ofthe gage 128, which is adjusted and held in its adjusted position by means of the screw129. The eye 130 is attached to some convenient part of the frame 2, and through it the welt is guided to the welt-guide in order to keep the welt from contact with the working parts of the machine. The rod or connection 131 is attached to the slide 97 and is loosely guided through a perforation in a stud or projection 132 on the slide 124, being surrounded by the spiral spring 133 between the stud-132 and a collar or shoulder on the rod, the tendency of said spring being to force the slide with its attached welt-guide forward, so as to cause the welt-guide to press against the side of the boot or shoe with a slight pressure while it is beingsewed. The collar 134 is adjustably mounted on the forward end of the rod 131, and it will be seen that when the slide 97 is moved backward in its guides in the frame 2 by means of the cam'SS it will also cause the 'slide 124 and its attached welt-guide to be moved backward. It is not necessary to the working of the machine that the welt-guide should be drawn backward with the backgage by the action of the cam 83, and if such movement of the welt-guide is to be dispensed with the collar 134 is not placedupon the rod 131. The action of the cam 33 simply draws back the rod 131 and removes the pressure of the spring 133 from the welt-guide, allowing it to easily be moved backward when placing the boot or shoe on the machine ready to be sewed.

Heretofore in most of the machines of this class when placing the boot or shoe upon the machine to be sewed it has been necessary for the operator to press the same against the back-gage and welt-guide, either or both, as is used on the machine, with sufficient pressure to force them backward against the spring-pressure exerted on them, but such is not the case with all of the machines of this class. vention is to provide novel and improved means whereby the boot or shoe is easily placed in position to be sewed without forc-- ing the backgage or welt-guide backward by the boot or shoe. This we accomplish as follows:

Referring to Figs. 1, 2, 3, 9, and 10, the rod 23, attached at its lowerend to the lever 22, which is on the treadle-shaft, is pivotally attached at its upper end to the lever 135-, which is firmly mounted upon the shaft 130, said shaft being rotatable in hearings in the bracket 137, attached to or made in one piece with the upper end of the standard 1. The lever 138 is firmly secured to the shaft 136' and turns with said shaft. The upper end of the lever 138 is perforated and receives the rear screw-threaded end of the rod 139, said rod being movable in said perforation and connected in its forward end to the slide 97. Outside the lever 138 and upon the screw- One of the principal objects of ourinthreaded end of the rod 189 is screwed the nut and check-nut 140, which are made adjustable thereon. The rear screw-threaded end of the rod 141 projects through a perforation in the block 142, pivotally attached to the lever 138, and is provided with the nut and check'nut 143. The rod 141 is pivotally connected in its forward end to the stud 132 on the slide 124. The operation of this device is as follows: hen the pressure is released from the treadle 17 to stop the machine after sewing a boot or shoe, the rod 23 is drawn downward by means of the spring 24. This downward movement of the rod will cause the shaft 136 to rock in its bearwhich it is loosely movable.

backward, which movement of said lever will cause it and the block 142 to come into contact, respectively, with the nuts and checknuts 140 and 143 on the respective rods 130 and 141. This will cause the automatic witlr drawal of the back-gage and welt-guide from contact with the boot or shoe which has been sewed, allowing said boot or shoe to be easily removed from the channel-guide and another boot or shoe to be placed upon the machine in position to be sewed. \Vhen the treadle is again depressed to start the machine, the rod 23 will be moved upward against the influence of the spring 24, causing the upper end of the lever 138 to move forward and allow the springs 87 and 133 to again press the back-gage and welt-guide, respectively, against the boot or shoe.

In Figs. 20 and 21is shown another arrange ment of the mechanism which may be used to cause the automatic withdrawal of the back-gage when the machine is stopped. In this arrangement the rod 139 has been dispensed with, the levers 135 and 138 united together forming a bell-crank lever which is pivotally attached to the bracket 137 arranged on the front of the top of the standard. The upper part of the lever 138 is made to engage a projection on the slide 97 and to force the slide with its attached back-gage backward when the machine is stopped. The lever 22 in Fig. 21, to the free end of which the lower end of the rod 23 is attached, is mounted on a shaft other than the treadleshaft, and to the opposite end of the shaft on which the lever 22 is mounted is attached a short lever having its free end resting against the under side of the treadle-lever in such a manner as to cause the downward movement of the rod 23 whenever the treadle is depressed, as will be fully understood by reference to Figs. 20 and 21.

We Wish it to be understood that we do not confine ourselves to the use of the exact mech anism shown and described in producing the automatic withdrawal of the back-gage by the stopping of the machine, as such mechanism may be varied within the scope of mechanical skill without departing from the spirit of our invention.

An automatic means is employed to automatically release the tension on the thread or cord when the machine is stopped, so as to allow the thread or cord to feed forward easily with the boot or shoe when the boot or shoe is being removed from the machine after it has been sewed. This device is constructed and operated as follows: To the shaft 136 is firmly secured the perforated arm or lever 144, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, through the perforation in which the lower screw-threaded end of the rod is made to project and within The nut and check-nut 145 are screwed upon the screwthreaded end of the rod 75 just in front of the lever 144 and so that said lever may come in contact with them when the shaft is turned remove said lever from contact with the nut' and check-nut 145, thus allowing the spring 69 to exert a pressure on the tension-wheel 65, causing a tension on the thread; but if the pressure on the treadle is removed the treadle will be raised to its upper position by the influence of the spring 24, thus stopping the machine, and by means of the connecting-rod 23 will turn the shaft 136 in its bearing, so as to cause the lever 144 to press against the nut and check-nut 145,and consequently move the rod 75 forward in its bearings in the ear on the tension-release lever, which will cause the forked bell-crank lever 77 to remove the friction from the tension-wheel and consequently automatically release the tension on the thread or cord by the stopping of the machine.

In preparing the boot or shoe ready for sewing the upper is lasted on the insole and held in such position, substantially as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, by means of the lasting-tacks 146, and it is very desirable to extract these tacks while the boot or shoe is being sewed and preferably just ahead of the needle when sewing them, as the needle is very liable to be bent or broken by cominginto contact with the tacks when they are not extracted.

A tack-puller and its operating mechanism are incorporated in the machine and constructed and operated substantially as follows: The cam 7 is provided on its side with the cam-groove 147, which acts upon the roll 148 on the lever 149, pivoted at 150 to the frame 2, causing said lever to oscillate on its fulcrum. To the free lower end of the lever 149 is pivotally attached the block 151 by means of the pin or bolt 152, substantially as shown in Fig. 13. The opposite end of said block forms a fulcrum 153 for the lever 154. Thus it will be seen that the introduction of the block 151 between the levers 149 and 154 and the pivotal connection between said block and levers forms a universal joint, so that the lever 154 is capable of turning in a substantially horizontal plane on the pin 152 as a center and also in a substantially vertical plane on its fulcrum 153 on the block, as shown in Fig. 13. The cam 7 is also provided on its face with the cam-groove 155, which acts upon the roll 156 on the rear end of the lever 154, (shown in Figs. 1 and 3,) causing said lever to oscillate 011 its pin 152 as a center, thus giving its forward end a lateral movement for a purpose as will be understood by the further description of the mechanism. The cam 7 is also provided on its face with the cam-surface 157, which acts upon the roll158, also on the rear end of the lever 154, (seen in said Figs. 1 and 3,) causing said lever to turn on its fulcrum 153 on the block 151 as a center, thus giving the forward end of the lever an upand-down movement, said roll being held against said cam-surface by the yielding pres sure of a spring, so as to allow the forward end of the lever to rise, if necessary. The action of the cam 1&7 on the lever 149 will cause the free end of the lever 154 to have a forward and backward movement. The tackpuller proper, 159, is securely attached to the forward end of the lever 154, as shown in Fig. 1. The forward end of the puller is forked or comb-shaped, but the particular shape of the puller has not been illustrated on the drawings, as it was thought to be unnecessary, it being made in the shape of any of the cominon hand tack-pullers now in use.

The cams which govern the movements of the levers 14,9 and 154 are so timed in relation to each other that their combined actions upon said levers will cause the forward end of the lever 154, and consequently the tackpuller attached to said lever, to have five m0vements--viz., a lateral movement'from the right toward the left of the machine at the same time that the boot or shoe is being fed by the feeding mechanism, a forward move ment toward the boot or shoe to introduce the tack-puller under the head of thelasting tack or tacks driven into the boot or shoe which is in its path, an upward movement to draw the tack or tacks from the boot or shoe, a combined backward or downward movement, and, finally, a lateral movement from the left toward the right of the machine to the place from whence it started.

In some cases it may be desirable to dispense with the lateral movements of the 'puller from right to left of the machine and return, and we do not wish to confine ourselves to the use of such movements. If the lateral movements are dispensed with, the course in which said tack-puller will move will be substantially a right-angle-triangular c0ursethat is to say, it will move forward substantially in a horizontal plane, upward at substantially a right angle to its forward movement, and finally backward-and downward in an inclined direction to the point from which it started.

'Letters Patent of the United States were issued to us for an improved tack-pulling attachment for sewing-machines, which Letters Patent are numbered 520,775 and bear date June 5, 1894:. In said Letters Patent the tack-puller and its operating mechanism were so constructed that the tack pulling tool moved in a quadrangular path in extracting the tacks; but the device described and illustrated in this specification is an improvement over that covered by our patent above mentioned, as the tack-pulling tool moves a shorter distance, and consequently requires less expenditure of power in accomplishing its work. v

The course of the thread or cord T used in this machine on its way from a suitable waxpot(not shown on the drawings) to the looper is as follows: from the wax-pot to and around the tension-wheel 65, through the hook or loop 81 in the take-up, over the sheave 82 on the bracket 83, over a second sheave 160 on a bracket 161, attached to or made in one piece with the frame 2 and shown in Fig. 1, through the hollow looper-shaft 51, and finally to and through the perforation in the looper 53. As the forward and backwardmovements of the needle are the same at all times and under all conditions and the sameamount of thread or cord is contained in the loop from the upper surface of the stock through the hook or throat of the needle and back through the upper surface of the stock when the needle is in its extreme backward position and as the amount of feed and consequentlength of stitch, also the thickness of the stock being sewed, vary under different circumstances, it is necessary that more or less of the thread contained in the loop should be taken up by the take-up 80 in order to reduce the rendering of thread through the hook or throat of the needle to a minimumthat is to say, when either sewing with short stitches or through thin stock, or when doing both, more thread should be taken up than when sewing with long stitches and through thick stock. For-the purpose of having the takeup work satisfactorily and to produce the best results we make such take-up adjustable upon the needle-lever or in relation to the thread, so that when sewing with very long stitches and through very thick stock, either or both, we adjust the take-up in such a manner that the greater part of its movements will be lost motion, and its loop will only engagethe stock, at the end of its movement toward the left, the needle 36 drawn backward and out of the stock, the back-gage 85 and auxiliary back-gage locked, the tack-puller 159 at its back position and at the extreme left of its movement, the looper 53 at its outer or front position, and the friction on the tensionwheel 65 causing a tension on the threadthe operation of the combined mechanisms and devices which constitute the machine are as follows: The back-gage 85 is unlocked, the slide 33 and'tack-puller 159 move toward the right of the machine, and the looper 53 begins to rotate toward the right and rear, all at the same time. When the slide 33 reaches the end of its movement toward the right, the

looper its rear position, and the tension is still the stock, and projects through the same far enough to expose the hook or throat, the looper 53 begins its return forward movement toward the left. The tack-puller 159 and the slide 33 begin to move toward the left, causing the feeding of the stock. Just previous to and during the feeding of the stock the back-gage S5 and the welt-guide 125 are drawn backward by the action of the cam 88 on the backgage lever 90. During this time the looper by its rotation toward the left, as above described, loops the thread or cord over the projecting end of the needle and into the hook or throat of the same, and after the loop has been made the tension is released. As the stock reaches the end of its movement toward the left the looper reaches the end of its rotation. Just previous to the backward movement of the needle to withdraw it through the stock and to carry with it the loop which rests in its hook or throat the back-gage and auxiliary back-gage become locked, the tack-:

puller makes a quick forward and then upward movement to pull the tack or tacks which may be in its path, and after the needle has withdrawn slightly the looper rotates forward to its front position. During the last part of the backward movement of the needle the tack-puller moves backward and downward in an inclined direction to the position from whence it started,and the tension is again applied to the thread orcord. Theloop which remains resting on the needle is cast off from the'needle just as it leaves the stock when moving backward in making the next stitch.

We wish it to be understood that we do not wish to confine ourselves to the exact means shown to accomplish the automatic intermitting releasing of the tension on the thread or cord or the taking up of a portion of the loop to reduce the rendering of thread through the needle to a minimum. Neither do we wish to confine ourselves to the exact construction shown to connect the back-gage, auxiliary back-gage, welt-guide, or the tension-releasingmechanism with the starting and stopping mechanism in order to operate them as above described, as any or all of such mechanisms might be modified or changed within the scope of mechanical skill without departing from the spirit of our invention.

Having thus fully described the nature, construction, and operation of our invention, we wish to secure by Letters Patent and claim- 1. In a wax-thread sewing-machine, a tension device for the thread, consisting of a stud 63 mounted on the frame of the machine, a tension-wheel 65 loosely mounted on said stud, a collar 68 longitudinally movable on the stud, friction-washers between said Wheel and collar, a nut 70 and a spring 69 on said stud to produce tension on the thread carried on said wheel, combined with a cam 71 on the driving-shaft of the machine, a lever 73 intermittingly operated by said cam and fulcrumed to the frame of the machine, a rod 7 5 moved in one direction by the action of said lever, a

lever 7 7 fulcrumed to the frame, attached to said rod and acting on the collar 69, whereby the tension on the thread is intermittingly and automatically released during the formation of the stitches to allow an unobstructed supply of thread; a starting and stopping treadle, a rock-shaft 136 mounted within bear ings on the machine and rocked in its bearings by the operation of said treadle, an arm 14 firmly mounted on the rock-shaft and acting on the rod '75 to automatically release the tension on the thread when the machine is stopped, and renew the tension when the machine is started, for the purpose set forth.

2. In a sewing-machine, a spring-pressed back-gage, an operating mechanism as described to intermittingly withdraw the backgage from contact with the stock being sewed, and a locking device as described to intermittingly lock and firmly hold the back-gage, combined with a welt-guide firmly mounted on and movable with a slide, a connectingrod between the slide for the welt-guide and the back-gage-operating mechanism, said connecting-rod being fulcrumed to the backgage-operating mechanism, slide and loosely connected to the welt-guide, also having a collar and spring on it arranged substantially as described, whereby the welt-guide is automatically withdrawn with the back-gage by the back-gage-operating mechanism, but is free to be moved backward against the influence of the spring when the back-gage is locked, substantially as set forth.

3. In a sewing-machine for sewing boots and shoes, the combination with a stationary channel-guide of a slide movable in guides on the frame of the machine toward and from the channel-guide,a spring-pressed back-gage adj ustably mounted on the slide, a rock-shaft, a starting and stopping treadle mounted on said shaft, mechanism connected to and 0perated by the movements of said shaft to start and stop the machine, a lever mounted on the rock-shaft, a bell-crank lever fulcrumed to the frame of the machine, a rod connecting said lever and bell-crank lever, a second rod attached at one end to the slide which carries the back-gage and having its opposite end projecting through a perforation in the free end of the bell-crank lever, and a nut on the other end of said second rod, whereby the back-gage is automatically withdrawn from the boot or shoe against the pressure exerted on said gage by its spring by the operation of said treadle when stopping the machine, said spring-pressure being allowed to again press the back-gage against the boot or shoe by the operation of said treadle when starting the machine, the back-gage being free to be moved backward against its spring-pressure at all times, independent of the treadle and connecting mechanism by the sliding of the second rod in the perforation in the bell-crank lever, for the purpose set forth.

4:. In a sewing-machine for sewing welted boots and shoes, a slide movable forward and backward within guides in the frame,a springpressed back-gage mounted on said slide and moved therewith, a rod attached to said slide, mechanism substantially as described operating on said rod to automatically withdraw said gage from contact with the boot or shoe, a second slide movable forward and backward within guides in the frame, a welt-guide attached to said second slide, a connecting-rod pivotally attached to one of said slides and moving loosely through a perforation in the other slide, or a projection on the other slide, a spring to press said welt-guide forward with a yielding pressure, and a collar on said connecting-rod whereby said welt-guide will be automatically withdrawn in unison with the back-gage, for the purpose set forth.

5. In a sewing-machine for sewing welted boots and shoes, the combination of a starting and stopping mechanism, a spring-pressed back-gage movable toward and from the boot or shoe being sewed, connections between the back gage and the starting and stopping mechanism whereby the back-gage is automatically withdrawn when the machine is stopped and replaced when the machine is started, a spring-pressed welt-guide movable toward and from the boot or shoe being sewed, connections between the back-gage and weltguide whereby the welt-guide is automatically operated in unison with the back-gage when the machine is stopped and said backgage and welt-guide are free to be moved backward against their respective springpressures independent of each other, for the purpose set forth. I

6. In a sewing-machine, a back-gage, a tension device, a tension-releasing mechanism, a starting and stopping mechanism for the machine, connecting mechanisms substantially as described between the starting and stop ping mechanisms and the back-gage, and connections between the starting and stopping mechanism and the tension-releasing mechanism whereby the back-gage is automatically withdrawn from contact with the stock being sewed and the tension on the thread is automatically released by the stopping of the machine, and whereby the back-gage is again automatically pressed against the stock and the tension on the thread renewed by the starting of the machine, thus allowing the stock to be placed upon or removed from the machine with ease, as set forth.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands, this 31st day of October, 1894:, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALFRED B. FOWLER, GEORGE E. WARREN.

Witnesses:

M. E. DOLLOFF, A. L. GOODING. 

